24th March 1986 : Cruising
Woke and sat up to watch a two-manned dhow sail across a spectacular red/orange sunrise – a curtain of light falling through a break in the clouds near the horizon, the sea quiet and calm in the early morning.
Let me introduce myself so you're not embarking on this nostalgic journey with a total stranger.
I'm Melanie Ball, a university science degree drop-out, widely published travel writer (an accidental career borne of my African journey), author of three bushwalking guidebooks (Top Walks in Victoria, Top Walks in Tasmania & Top Walks in Australia), and hat decorator under the name Appliquez Moi. (That's me with the sun-bleached hair and west African fabric sarong. I don't know the baby chimp's name because we weren't formally introduced.)
From infancy my parents read to me and my sisters — C.S. Lewis’s Narnia series on long drives to Queensland for summer holidays, Paddington Bear in bed with Mum on Sunday mornings— and encouraged us to read to escape, to learn, to laugh. No book was off limits and all three of us are life-long voracious readers.
Two very different books profoundly influenced the teenaged me: Wilbur Smith’s When The Lion Feeds, the first of his multiple adventure novels set (mostly) in colonial southern Africa, and Jane Goodall’s In The Shadow of Man, detailing her ground-breaking study of wild chimpanzees in Tanzania. (Jane Goodall's recent death, in her sleep, aged 91, while on a talking tour, made me sad but also made me re-examine, remember and celebrate the extraordinary life and works of the woman who David Attenborough called "the conscience of conservation".) Together and separately, those two books ignited in me a romantic fascination for Africa and determination to go there, a dream that I finally realised at the age of 26, when I joined an Exodus Expeditions London to Johannesburg overland adventure. I had reached London by overlanding with Exodus from Kathmandu to London (11 weeks of ups - close encounters with rhinoceroses in Nepal, sunrise on the Taj Mahal, the wonders of Istanbul - and lows - five weeks of Delhi Belly that, surprisingly but thankfully, left me with an iron gut), and explored Egypt for several weeks, but my 17 months away from home were predominantly about finally experiencing the extraordinary continent that is Africa.
When my passport (containing multiple visas) was stolen from my daypack on the London Tube the day before the tour departed, my dream was all but dashed. But the passport was newly issued in London and, faced with my near-hysterics, the efficient and compassionate Australian Embassy staff issued me a new passport in one hour!
And so, the adventure of my life began.
P.S. I have edited excerpts for poor grammar and to protect the innocent and the guilty.
P.P.S. Most photos in this blog are scans of prints - and I didn't take many before reaching Morocco.
24 Mar 2026 13:13
Woke and sat up to watch a two-manned dhow sail across a spectacular red/orange sunrise – a curtain of light falling through a break in the clouds near the horizon, the sea quiet and calm in the early morning.
24 Mar 2026 12:51
It got hot early, and I sought shade to eat breakfast. Everyone was talking about the lions roaring all night but I'd been oblivious.
24 Mar 2026 12:24
Massive bridge-building complete by breakfast, rocks piled with sand and signed E2B2 (Exodus Bridge) (Exodus Expedition Bridge Building Brigade, thorn trees felled and in position for our crossing. And Stanley performing like the trooper that he is.
24 Mar 2026 11:05
Late breakfast under Kilimanjaro – the snow-capped peak clear of clouds and shining in the sun.
24 Mar 2026 10:32
We breakfasted in the pre-dawn dark, only a few of us gathered around the fire as we gazed upwards at Halley's Comet – a pale blur in the sky, not the blaze of light across the sky that I had imagined.
19 Mar 2026 11:27
Our coastal jaunt began today, so we headed into town to shop, and cash more money, and buy a huge sack of wholemeal bread, before we left the city.
19 Mar 2026 11:16
Woke to a gloomy morning that threatened a repetition of yesterday’s downpour. So rugged up for trip to Amex, post office to check parcel prices, and another meet up at the Thorn Tree.
19 Mar 2026 10:43
After breakfast, and the return of Bob and Karen to the truck, I walked into town with Vicki. Got caught in rain wandering the streets to the Australian Embassy where we learned that they could do nothing to help us with new pages for our passports. Did take the chance, though, to read a couple of back editions of The Age newspaper from home.
16 Mar 2026 19:28
Ate a late breakfast and then sat by the pool writing to Mum & Dad before boarding Stanley. We drove into town to shop and then hit the road to Mayer’s Maasai Ranch, a journey that took us well out of the city and down into the Rift Valley.
16 Mar 2026 10:31
Woke up in a scene reminiscent of the Grampians (an isolated series of mountain ranges in western Victoria, Australia), so like home it took me back there.
14 Mar 2026 10:56
Woke up to a beautiful orange sky and went to the loo behind a prickly bush among grazing Thomsons gazelles.
13 Mar 2026 13:10
Quick breakfast, in a hurry after delayed start, with everyone pitching in so we could start game spotting.